Renowned Nepali climber Kami Rita Sherpa reached the summit of Mount Everest for a record-breaking 32nd time on May 17, breaking his own world record for the most successful ascents of the world’s highest peak.
The 56-year-old mountaineer reached the 8,849-meter (29,032-foot) summit at 10:12 a.m., leading a climbing team organized by Seven Summit Treks and 14 Peaks Expedition. His achievement surpasses his 31st climb completed last year.
“This is not just an individual achievement,” Kami Rita said after returning. “It is a testament to over three decades of relentless hard work, struggles between life and death, and the unwavering dedication of the Sherpa community.”
From Thame to the Base of the Mountain
Kami Rita was born Jan. 17, 1970, in Thame, a village in the Khumbu valley located approximately 3,800 meters (12,467 feet) above sea level. Thame is also the childhood home of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who made the historic first ascent of Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953.
One of eight children, Kami Rita grew up in a family deeply rooted in mountaineering. His father, Mingma Tshering Sherpa, was among the first professional Sherpa guides after Nepal opened its borders to foreign climbers in 1950. His father’s career ended in 1992 due to severe frostbite.
Economic hardships and the high cost of education limited Kami Rita to a third-grade education. Although he initially aspired to become a Buddhist monk, financial pressure forced him into the mountaineering industry.
Rising Through the Ranks
Kami Rita began his career at age 12 as a porter, carrying gear from Lukla to Everest Base Camp. He recalled carrying loads heavier than his own body weight—including tents, oxygen cylinders, and food—often walking through freezing, damp terrain with inadequate footwear.
He later transitioned to a kitchen assistant at higher camps, melting snow for water and cooking in temperatures dropping between minus 20 and minus 30 degrees Celsius.
“At that time, we were uneducated and poor. Climbing dangerous mountains was our obligation for survival,” Kami Rita said. “We didn’t have the modern gear, warm boots, or satellite weather forecasts available today. We measured snow depth by experience and sight. Many times, we watched our own friends sweep away in avalanches right before our eyes.”
He credits those early hardships with developing the physical and mental resilience required to endure low oxygen levels and high-altitude environments.
The First Ascent and Evolving Challenges
Kami Rita reached the summit of Mount Everest for the first time on May 13, 1994, at age 24, via the southeastern ridge route. Since then, he has made near-annual ascents. He reached 8,500 meters in 1995 but was forced back by severe weather, before completing his second successful climb in 1997.
While mountaineering has become more modern and technology-driven, the risks remain high. Kami Rita now commands fees of $10,000 or more per climb, though he recalls working for minimal pay early in his career.
The inherent dangers of the “death zone”—the area above 8,000 meters where oxygen is scarce—have caused his wife, Lakpa Jangmu, to repeatedly ask him to retire. To keep his two children away from the high-risk industry, the couple has prioritized their education outside of mountaineering.
Kami Rita also voiced concerns regarding climate change and government support, noting that melting ice, exposed rock, and receding glaciers are altering routes and making the climbs increasingly perilous.
Beyond Everest, he has summited other 8,000-meter peaks more than 45 times, including Cho Oyu eight times, Manaslu four times, K2 once, and Lhotse once, frequently leading ice-fixing teams to secure ropes for foreign clients.
A Historic Record-Breaking Run
Kami Rita’s solo record-breaking streak began in 2018 when his 22nd ascent broke the previous record of 21 climbs held jointly by veteran climbers Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa. The milestone marked a turning point in his career, cementing his status as the premier high-altitude guide on the mountain. He quickly followed this achievement the next year by shocking the mountaineering community, summiting twice within a single week to secure his 23rd and 24th climbs.
Although the global COVID-19 pandemic completely halted all Everest expeditions in 2020, Kami Rita returned to the mountain as soon as it reopened. In 2021, he completed his 25th ascent, celebrating a silver jubilee on the world’s highest peak, and updated his record once again in 2022 with his 26th successful climb.
The 2023 climbing season proved to be one of the most competitive of his career. After fellow veteran guide Pasang Dawa Sherpa matched his record, Kami Rita responded to the challenge by pushing for a second summit in a single season, locking in his 27th and 28th climbs to reclaim the solo world record.
His historic run gained even more momentum over the next three seasons. In 2024, he crossed the 30-summit milestone by climbing Everest twice in a span of just 10 days, capturing his 29th and 30th ascents on May 12 and May 22. After reaching the peak for a 31st time on May 27, 2025, he ultimately secured his 32nd successful ascent on May 17, 2026. Expedition officials noted that his lifetime total would likely be even higher if operations had not been completely shut down by the devastating 2015 earthquake and the 2020 pandemic.
Crowding and Climate Warnings
While celebrating his 32nd summit, Kami Rita raised urgent warnings regarding overcrowding in the upper sections of the mountain.
“I am very happy, but we must address the increasing traffic jams,” he said. “When hundreds of people stand in a single line on one rope in the death zone, the risk increases exponentially. The government must introduce limitations on issuing climbing permits.”
Looking ahead, Kami Rita intends to continue climbing as long as his health permits, emphasizing that his main priority remains safety rather than setting records. He plans to transition into training younger Sherpa guides and advocating for better pay, comprehensive insurance, and policy reforms to manage overcrowding and mitigate environmental degradation on the mountain.
Dipendra Dhungana
View More PostsDipendra Dhungana is a journalist based in Kathmandu with over a decade of experience in photojournalism. His work has been featured in numerous national and international outlets, showcasing the stories and resilience of the Nepali people. He is also a contributing journalist for NepYork.
